tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post6041614861778569949..comments2024-02-05T08:42:52.032+00:00Comments on Photo Utopia: Processing Your First Colour Negative FilmPhoto–Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-58205007553690461122011-06-24T19:40:26.484+00:002011-06-24T19:40:26.484+00:00Do it, if you have processed B&W it's not ...Do it, if you have processed B&W it's not that much harder.Photo–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-52606377744823952642011-06-21T20:19:22.654+00:002011-06-21T20:19:22.654+00:00Hmm been looking at the colour kit I bought last m...Hmm been looking at the colour kit I bought last month buy never tried yet. I ell have to next day off. You make it sound easy...Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-2580772526266760052011-02-17T19:37:48.103+00:002011-02-17T19:37:48.103+00:00Hi Ed great news! nothing stopping you now. Post s...Hi Ed great news! nothing stopping you now. Post some on filmwasters I can't wait to see them!Photo–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-10871588134342678072011-02-17T15:48:47.044+00:002011-02-17T15:48:47.044+00:00Yo! Ed here from Filmwasters....just processed my ...Yo! Ed here from Filmwasters....just processed my first 2 C-41 films (Agfa Ultra 100) using your tutorial and it went like a dream. Negs hanging up to dry. Looking great. Thanks a million :-)Ed Wennhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06790119213242661965noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-79764040164389616552011-02-04T08:05:41.576+00:002011-02-04T08:05:41.576+00:00Good reading! I do my own E-6 processing and latel...Good reading! I do my own E-6 processing and lately I've started C-41 (nothing on flickr yet). <br /><br />I'm using Jobo 1520 tank and I pre-heat it in the water bath for 30-40 minutes then I pour presoak water for 3 minutes, while the tank is still in the bath. I've noticed that the water temperature in the tank drops to about 37.5 - 37.0 °C which is too low for E-6. That's why my presoak bath is about 1.2°C hotter than the process temperature. Do you know any problems with going too low with temp on C-41 process? <br /><br />BTW I'm using Rollei Digibase C-41 kit and I could not reccomend it to anyone. The stabiliser bath is leaving honey-like gunk on the film. This is disaster.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-83318135481614035692011-01-26T17:37:24.579+00:002011-01-26T17:37:24.579+00:00The kit I bought is from AG photographic in the UK...The kit I bought is from AG photographic in the UK you could ask if they ship to Canada. A better bet would be Freestyle:<br />http://www.freestylephoto.biz/c1001-Color-Chemicals-Color-Print<br />Cut and paste that into your browser.<br />let me know how you get on.<br />MarkPhoto–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-74147617701699582782011-01-26T16:06:21.542+00:002011-01-26T16:06:21.542+00:00Hi very helpful tutorial, Im living on toronto and...Hi very helpful tutorial, Im living on toronto and was wondering where can I get that c-41 kit?Jaypeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15888005730066869187noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-73092502681404460712011-01-21T09:20:25.286+00:002011-01-21T09:20:25.286+00:00Thanks guys. I have been developing my own since 1...Thanks guys. I have been developing my own since 1982, but as i owned a Lab I just used the dip and dunk.<br />Finding myself needing good processing and finding out the local prolab had closed forced me to use a minilab.<br />The 35mm were fine but sometimes with 120 I would get first 'frame burn' which was due to them taping the film to the leader and getting light in to the 120 holder.<br /><br />Obakesan. If you do 4x5 the Paterson orbital will do 4 at a time I think they are better than the combiplan.<br />It would work out at around 50¢ a sheet and give you a little more control.Photo–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-69341435385041161302011-01-21T06:28:53.033+00:002011-01-21T06:28:53.033+00:00this is amazing.this is amazing.13 Stoplosshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12271477215225166355noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-63055335615708595962011-01-21T01:38:06.402+00:002011-01-21T01:38:06.402+00:00Nice work ... been getting closer and closer to ne...Nice work ... been getting closer and closer to needing to do C-41 myself ... especially as 4x5 C-41 costs $19 a sheet and its not even local anymoreobakesanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13743339737847465926noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-69238955776153017102011-01-20T20:11:47.360+00:002011-01-20T20:11:47.360+00:00Ralf I've never seen these 'cords' I r...Ralf I've never seen these 'cords' I ran a Prolab for many years, the dip and dunk transport time was about 15 seconds and didn't seem to cause problems-not in the 250,000+ films I processed :-)<br />I have been using the home kits since 1982 never seen cords or stains you mention.Photo–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-78128852322651606942011-01-20T19:40:59.056+00:002011-01-20T19:40:59.056+00:00if you develop at 38°C you should make sure that y...if you develop at 38°C you should make sure that you pour out the developer as fast as possible and to add the blix very, very quick. At 38° the developer is high reactive and if some drops stay ont the film surface the film will be overdeveloped and can produce cords which will look somehow darker. At 25°C you dont have the risk, because some seconds deviation isn't critical. At 38°C 15 seconds are way too much and will surely produce mistakes.ralf Bhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01189827048014929159noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-46064119006862550662011-01-20T19:32:23.039+00:002011-01-20T19:32:23.039+00:00Hi Ralf
Yes the Tetenal instruction mention lower ...Hi Ralf<br />Yes the Tetenal instruction mention lower temperatures, but I decided to keep it close to the C41 standard.<br />It is good to see you get Ok results at 25°C.<br />I'm going to add to this article or do another with more of my experiences-when I get time.Photo–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-16994839586008873732011-01-20T19:01:36.548+00:002011-01-20T19:01:36.548+00:00you can develop your films even at lower temperatu...you can develop your films even at lower temperatures, such as lowest 18°C. This is lowest what I have tried so far .. I would recommend to do it at 25°C which is easily to achieve and to hold. All you have to do is to make developing time longer. At 25°C you need 13 minutes developing time, 6 min blix and 7 min fixing and every 30 secs inversion. Thats all and very simple !<br />This is what I have tried at 18°C:<br /><br />http://www.flickr.com/photos/8073875@N02/5114573725/<br /><br />Happy developing !ralf Bhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01189827048014929159noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-84889752868910997172011-01-20T18:55:21.840+00:002011-01-20T18:55:21.840+00:00This comment has been removed by the author.ralf Bhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01189827048014929159noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-5329844848563345522011-01-20T15:41:44.740+00:002011-01-20T15:41:44.740+00:00Great article! I'll save it for future referen...Great article! I'll save it for future reference.<br />I've been planning to try developing my own C-41.Roadmousehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13975681047397013968noreply@blogger.com