tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post6655760770450583723..comments2024-02-05T08:42:52.032+00:00Comments on Photo Utopia: Developing your first B&W filmPhoto–Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-21902111181873526672008-09-15T21:31:00.000+00:002008-09-15T21:31:00.000+00:00hi !first off: nice looking blog ! I also think fi...hi !<BR/><BR/>first off: nice looking blog ! <BR/><BR/>I also think film is not dead (yet, but for our lifespans that's a pretty good precision)<BR/><BR/>I have an APX25 deep frozen from the days of fore (more exactly 2000, so it might have expired in 2004-5). I have not exposed it yet -- and here comes my question :<BR/><BR/>do you know how should one expose such a film and also what compensation to apply when developing ?<BR/><BR/>there used to be a site, but -unlike film- it's dead now ...<BR/><BR/>thanks,<BR/>tudor<BR/><BR/>p.s.<BR/>http://ecofotografie.homeip.net/ecogallery/<BR/>I have a gallery<BR/><A HREF="http://ecofotografie.homeip.net/ecogallery/" REL="nofollow"> with two friends here </A><BR/>or <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/tudima/" REL="nofollow"><BR/> here </A>tudor dimahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17263475464003278990noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-63058137220431826432008-08-06T10:42:00.000+00:002008-08-06T10:42:00.000+00:00Thanks for that, Mark!You're quite right, it can't...Thanks for that, Mark!<BR/>You're quite right, it can't be just the pre-soak. <BR/>Good tips in that reply, will definitely follow them. <BR/>Been playing with the over/under technique and less agitation and that is working just dandy for my purposes!<BR/><BR/>Now, to find time to do much more...Noonshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07694829378563989648noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-57114549917900141402008-08-02T22:06:00.000+00:002008-08-02T22:06:00.000+00:00NoonsI don't pre soak as a rule, the only time i d...Noons<BR/>I don't pre soak as a rule, the only time i do that is to bring up temperature on cold days.<BR/>Not sure about your theory either, as when you put in your developer the highlights will start to develop fast even after wetting and as you normally start developer with agitation most of the water residue will mixed with dev.<BR/>The best ways to reduce contrast are:<BR/><BR/>• Over expose and under develop.<BR/>With your 400 speed film set your meter at say 200 and reduce your dev time by 20-30% depending on film/light and lots of variables.<BR/><BR/>• Use a more dilute developer with less agitation.<BR/>I use Rodinal at 1:100 with 2 inversions per min on contrasty emulsions like Pan F or Efke 25 <BR/>Less agitation when done consistently can give long tonal scales.<BR/><BR/>• Use a 2 bath developer<BR/>Some developers like Diafine have 2 baths one developer and one activator the idea is that these have a compensating effect google diafine and find out more.<BR/><BR/>My method is the dilute Rodinal.<BR/>Also If you are getting high contrast on faster films you're probably under-exposing and over developing probably with too much agitation, faster films (as a rule of thumb) have less contrast than slow ones.<BR/>MarkPhoto–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-34300682835020658652008-07-29T07:53:00.000+00:002008-07-29T07:53:00.000+00:00great blog, just happened across it.Do you use a p...great blog, just happened across it.<BR/><BR/>Do you use a pre-soak prior to developer? I never did but have been experimenting with it and get a lot better gradation and less contrast on high speed film (400) that way. <BR/><BR/>My theory at the moment is that the pre-soak somehow acts as a "dilute developer" agent and ends up making it less active on the highlights, causing less contrast.Noonshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07694829378563989648noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-86030832433183122602008-05-23T22:17:00.000+00:002008-05-23T22:17:00.000+00:00I think thats fine. I have used the same method my...I think thats fine. I have used the same method myself when I have limited water.<BR/>I was told once that film actually washes quite quickly and as long as the water temp is not too cold the inversion method you describe is OK.<BR/>MarkPhoto–Smithhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14933432574703415143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32569695.post-77295371096101465542008-05-23T16:42:00.000+00:002008-05-23T16:42:00.000+00:00As an alternative to the 10 mins of constant washi...As an alternative to the 10 mins of constant washing, I've been following this process, taken from the Ilford information sheets for their films.<BR/><BR/>For spiral tank use, when a non-hardening fixer has been used, the following method of washing is<BR/>recommended. This method of washing is faster, uses less water yet still gives negatives suitable for<BR/>long term storage.<BR/><BR/>After fixing, fill the spiral tank with water at the same temperature, +/– 5ºC (9ºF), as the processing solutions and invert it five times. Drain the water away and refill. Invert the tank ten times.<BR/>Once more drain the water away and refill. Finally, invert the tank twenty times and drain the<BR/>water away.<BR/><BR/>Interested in your views on this.Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06691357518885459202noreply@blogger.com